Well, heres my system. Its abit messy atm with the wiring as i've got some 2.5cm tweeters to still go in so i've left the cables loose and long
what ive got is:
Sony Xplod Headunit (50w x 4) Sony Xplod 6 CD Changer In Glove Box 4" Sony Xplod 2 way 190w Speakers 6" Sony Xplod 2 way 250w Speakers 6x9 Sony Xplod 3 way 300w Speakers 2.5cm Sony Xplod 120w Tweeters 12" Sony Xplod 1200w Sub 3000w Cougar 6 Channel Amp (5x400w + 1000w) Phillips 8.5" TV/DVD (Built In DVD Player With USB Ports) Slimline PS2 Fridge
6x9's have always been a No No with Subs because of what they are really made for, i also work in the car audio industry
But to sum it up...
6x9's are great if you dont have a sub and want them to play all your frequency's
BUT if you have a sub, you just want them to play everything above 80-125Hz Which is about where you set your low pass filter on the sub, And then you set your splits to play everything higher, as well as your speakers... pretty much making 6x9's useless and setting them up on the back parcel shielf can cause them to become muffled/distorted by the sub under it.
My Sound system has 4" speakers behind the rear vents and in the boot next to the parcel shielf, with 6.5" splits up front.. All my speakers are amp'ed I run my High pass Filter on my amp at 80Hz for the splits and ~200 Hz for the rear 4" speakers so they dont play ANY bass as they are really just rear fill
My Sub has the low pass filter set at 80Hz on my monoblock amp.
motoboy wrote:top sticker ! ide vote for him! and ile give u credit for it mostly all being sony dan
haha cheers
only the amp and tv isn't sony. Not exactly been cheap to buy all of it.
Actually sounds really good even with the 6x9's there. just turn the low +db down and pissed about with the settings on the amp and it sounds awesome. Doesn't sound distorted at all.. even when i crank it right up
soon got a pair of 5.25" Sony Xplod 2 way 230w Speakers coming to go in the back grills.
Then going to save it for a carputer. Maybe i'm just being ridiculous but surely you have to be with your first car
well for an ordinary persons system its pretty good but if you were going for competitions not so flash. but im not dissing it. i think its ill advised what people say about not using 6x9's with a sub, if you do your settings right they sound great and only an audiophile might be able to pick up on the difference but to 95 percent of the population they wouldnt know notice a difference. but then again i am that other guy the ppl apparently had a problem with lol
either way its an alright system but i would suggest strengthen the parcel shelf
You have the right to your opinion and i have the right to think you're stupid.
[YLD80Y] wrote:Did anyone else notice the 6x9's are wired in series? That'll give awesome stereo separation!
not sure if you noticed also he has seriesed the 6x9's and the coaxials, which i can see why he has if its indeed the case of why i think its been done. it shouldnt have needed to be done. but seriesing the speakers wont affect its sound it only affects the load the amp sees.
but anyway enlighten us RYAN how have ya got the speakers wired and the 4 rear speakers how are they wired to the amp. because i think your not getting the most out of the amp for the rear speakers. i am sure i amright but yeah just want to check how ya have wired those rear speakers.
cheers billy
5x Aus. dB Drag Titles 2006 / 2007 / 2008 / 2009 / 2010
4x Aus Record holder in 4 dif. classes
Designer and Builder of Australias Loudest Ever Car 169.5 dB
Swifts PB: SM3-4 159.6 dB / SS3-4 163.5 dB
Volvos PB: Ext3+ 169.5 dB / Ext1-2 167.7 dB
[YLD80Y] wrote:Did anyone else notice the 6x9's are wired in series? That'll give awesome stereo separation!
not sure if you noticed also he has seriesed the 6x9's and the coaxials, which i can see why he has if its indeed the case of why i think its been done. it shouldnt have needed to be done. but seriesing the speakers wont affect its sound it only affects the load the amp sees.
If you wire 4 speakers in series they will become mono - no discrete left/right separation. I'd say that's a fairly noticeable reduction in sound reproduction quality... unless you're deaf in one ear.
the stageing from left to right will be affected thats all. but other then that being that they are in the rear of the car you wont notice it a great deal.
being that it is a 5.1 channel amp.
i would have the fronts running off 2 seperate channels. the rear 6x9's running off 1 channel together the 6'' coaxials in the rear running 2 seperate channels
and the sub running off the mono sub channel
thats the 6 channels utalised well
thats my advise to ya there Ryan.
cheers billy
5x Aus. dB Drag Titles 2006 / 2007 / 2008 / 2009 / 2010
4x Aus Record holder in 4 dif. classes
Designer and Builder of Australias Loudest Ever Car 169.5 dB
Swifts PB: SM3-4 159.6 dB / SS3-4 163.5 dB
Volvos PB: Ext3+ 169.5 dB / Ext1-2 167.7 dB
mate ditch all that crap and get some decent gear, you can still flog it all on eBay
also dont like quality of wiring, i know exactly how to make wiring tidy but accessible
this is why I love my job (hell I've even picked up doing this job), for example, a guy and a girl who r together come to my place to fix up a dodgy system that he did in her car. I do it quickly and professionally and make it look easy and she gives him the usual why couldn't you do that speech. Then while he is playing with the system I talk to her a little bit and she gets my number out of her bf's fone and calls me a day later. A week later she breaks up with him and we start going out, he comes over and wants to punch on (I go to the gym every arvo cept for fridays and he is taller than me but a scrawny c**t) I throw him into the garage door, HARD, and I never hear from him again.
I would have 6 inch splits, running of a 2 channel amplifier, in the front in properly done door trims ('glassed pods, sound deadening etc) and 4 inch rears running off the head unit, and a 12" sub running from a decent monoblock amplifier in a properly built sealed or ported box (remembering that ported boxes are more than just a sealed box with a hole, they have to be built to different dimensions.)
Solder and heatshrink all connections, DON'T use wiring kits and run cable off a reel, 8B&S as a minimum, or "gauge" if your going to speak American in this country. If you are going to crimp a terminal USE THE RIGHT RATCHET CRIMPER, not the plier type crimpers or a pair of pliers, USE THE RIGHT CRIMPERS I CANT STRESS THAT ENOUGH.
I feel that even car audio installers don't know what they are doing, because they are taught as accessory fitters....which as we all know are idiots compared to auto electricians, not only can we install stereos but we can fit a second battery, do a BIG 3 upgrade or even change your alternator out for a bigger one that will fit or modify your existing one internally to pump out more amperage. Last time I checked, accessory fitters barely knew how to solder, but they knew how to twist and tape well.
ben23 wrote:I do it quickly and professionally and make it look easy and she gives him the usual why couldn't you do that speech. Then while he is playing with the system I talk to her a little bit and she gets my number out of her bf's fone and calls me a day later. A week later she breaks up with him and we start going out
kinda messy dnt u think? wires shld b hidden, allot neater that way.
i wulda put eh screen on the glovebox flap, then had all the wires hidden underneath it or covered in with something.
good work tho, imm looking at hooking an old skewl sega megadrive (the one wit alex the kid built in) into my boot. imagine 1990 game system sounds through a sound system of today haha
kinda messy dnt u think? wires shld b hidden, allot neater that way.
i wulda put eh screen on the glovebox flap, then had all the wires hidden underneath it or covered in with something.
good work tho, imm looking at hooking an old skewl sega megadrive (the one wit alex the kid built in) into my boot. imagine 1990 game system sounds through a sound system of today haha
on 3 cables you can see, 2 which go into the tv/dvd player thing (power cable+av input) and the ps2 controller.
right then, since i was retarded and bought these speakers i have been reading audio forums such as talk audio and streetbassers and have realized that it obviously sounds s**t.
so therefore i have sold the rear 6x9's, rear tweeters and rear 6" speakers and front 4"'s. had a box made and ported (dual box) as i now have another sub. I have changed the 4" speakers in the front for some component 4"'s (Diamond D343) but am wanting some 6.5" (17cm) components (Diamon D161.5) for the doors but i do not know how to make door pods. Can anyone help?
also got rid of that shitty amp and have a boss audio CX950.
try the forum I've linked below. If you search the forum probably under beginners discussion or Installation/Fabrication you will find heaps of tuts on "how to build door pods". Nice guys too if you need any advice etc you can usually get the answers you are after.
forget the 4 inch speakers unless u have some crazy mounting problems in the front for 6 inch and tweeters.
all u need is 2 6 inch up front, coaxle or splits, and then anuther cuple of 6 inch speakers in the rear. a four channel amp for theses.
then your subs, dnt go mixin subs, chances are youll get mixed sounds from 2 different subs. get a monoblock amp for them, or 2, depends how much power your after.
u need a head deck that has front, rear and sub RCA outputs, otherwise the sound turns out s**t.
if u dnt wannt amps for the speakers, use the wires in the head deck.
make sure your power cables are big enuf to take the load of all the amps, and make sure ur ground wire is touching the metal, not the paint, and dont make it smaller then the poer wire into the amp.
i have a 2 guage wire from my battery to a T-Block, then 4 guage to the 2 amps i have in my car. from each amp is 4 guage ground.
make sure wen you wire the sub up to the amp you use a good heavey duty speaker wire, not like the kinds you use for your computer speakers, but sumthin like 16 guage or sumthin. once thats done you might want to upgrade your battery and get a better alternator, cause ur car will struggle with all that in there and headlights and brake lights and everything working.
buy sum speaker pods from autobarn or wow, they pretty cheap but match the interior pretty good.
debatable, but make sure all connections are soldered and heat shrinked. (waits for argument from twist and taper) do it right the first time, and you wont have to redo it l8er
2 frownies 
](https://www.redlinegti.com/forum/images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall")
That'll give awesome stereo separation!
into my boot. imagine 1990 game system sounds through a sound system of today 
haha
now thats cool NOW you can keep all your Frozen groceries cold 
