Audio Build - Swift Sport 09

[RS416]

Hi,

I know that an audio build is quite subjective to individual tastes and the sound that you like opposed to anyone else. Am planning to do the following to my Swift Sport and wonder if from a technical aspect I should steer clear from/consider an alternative to the following components/combination for my build!

1) Have bought the replacement facia, bracket and pocket to allow removal of stock Clarion gi-beast-u-gantic unit and install of any 1 or 2 DIN head unit

2) Head Unit - Clarion CZ309A - really like the USB/iPOD input, OEM steering wheel compatibility, front 3.5mm AUX input, 6 channel RCA outputs and 4 x 50watts base - plan to drive the stock front splits and the rears from the HU

3) Clarion APX1301 mono block 420W amp to drive the sub alone

4) JBL GT5 - 12inch bass reflex vented enclosure pre built for the sub, driven off the above amp.

The costs seem pretty reasonable for the functionality and quality. I am not wanting to spend a fortune and I can get all the above for about $700 plus install.

My only real concern is the stock front splits/rears which I think actually sound pretty good to my untrained ears. If I was to replace them I would look to use a separate amp to drive them and replace with JBL or Clarion splits and rears. Does anyone know what brand the stock Swift Sport speakers are anyway?

cheers for any advice/criticism!

[Shazlic]

I know the upgrade sound pack comes with clarion. The regular ones are clarion aswell from memory just not as good wattage.

[[YLD80Y]]

Having a monoblock to run the 12" will be overkill if the front splits are only running off the head unit. Ditch the monoblock and get a beefy 4 channel amp to run the front splits and sub (bridged). That will make a world of difference to the sound quality.

[MSF17]

Having a monoblock to run the 12" will be overkill if the front splits are only running off the head unit. Ditch the monoblock and get a beefy 4 channel amp to run the front splits and sub (bridged). That will make a world of difference to the sound quality.

or, keep the mono block on the 12in, and get a 4ch amp to run the rest of the incar, its what i did with mine, makes the world of difference.

[MSF17]

as for the standard speakers, im not sure wat brand they are, but from factory there not too bad..

ive got alpine type r splits in the front, ive modded the door trim so they fit thru it, and i also have kicker splits in the rear. both sets running of a alpine 4ch amp. i use to have 2 x 12in pioneer comp spec woofers in the boot, running off a big kicker mono block but have recently removed them...

ur system sounds like it will sound good, but i would upgrade ur front and rear speakers to aftermarket ones, the brands u mentioned have some good speakers on offer, so, id hit up a set of 6in splits in the front doors, and a set of 6in 2 or 3 ways in the rear doors. then a nice 4 ch amp to power them, should be awesome then

[RS416]

Sounds like the extra AMP for the front/rears is the way to go (which I kind of suspected). If I cannot really afford that part as yet should I get the additional required power and audio cabling run through and left in place for the secondary AMP when the sub AMP is installed? Or better to leave the cabling until I have the actual AMP and speakers?

[[YLD80Y]]

I suggested the 4 channel amp on the basis that budget was an important factor. Having all speakers running off an amp would be advantageous, but to be honest unless you have fussy people in your back seat often, you can get away with having a 4 channel run the front speakers and sub.

If you want to eventually run two amps then you're better off getting the wiring for both done during the first install. That will make installing the second amp easier. Also, if you locate the amps near each other you could start off with a 4 channel running the fronts/sub, then buy a monoblock later and reconfigure the wiring slightly to suit.

[RS416]

I suggested the 4 channel amp on the basis that budget was an important factor. Having all speakers running off an amp would be advantageous, but to be honest unless you have fussy people in your back seat often, you can get away with having a 4 channel run the front speakers and sub.

If you want to eventually run two amps then you're better off getting the wiring for both done during the first install. That will make installing the second amp easier. Also, if you locate the amps near each other you could start off with a 4 channel running the fronts/sub, then buy a monoblock later and reconfigure the wiring slightly to suit.

Thanks, good to have some options/ideas. So if I was going to run a 4 Channel AMP alone is this AMP a reasonable option and would the power be enough to drive the sub?
http://www.ryda.com.au/Clarion-APX4241- ... px4241.htm

If I am reading that correctly it has 4x80W at 2 Ohms, which would drive the front/rear speakers and then 4x60W at 4 Ohms which might mean 240W to drive the sub?

The specs on the sub are, RMS = 275 and peak = 1000W, Freq range 45hz-150hz. Does this mean you need at least 275W to drive the sub properly?
http://www.ryda.com.au/JBL-GT5-12-12-Su ... 1204br.htm

Gets a bit confusing sometimes!

[Shazlic]

The amp has MAX 400W across 4 channels. one channel goes front left, other front right. thats 200W MAX gone. That leaves 200W for the sub across the remaining 2 channels which leaves it dramatically under powered even if the amp is max'ed out.

[RS416]

The amp has MAX 400W across 4 channels. one channel goes front left, other front right. thats 200W MAX gone. That leaves 200W for the sub across the remaining 2 channels which leaves it dramatically under powered even if the amp is max'ed out.

Thanks. Okay so when they say 4x80W and 4x60W you obviously don't just multiply! Ahhhh the learning curve! Does a "bridgeable" AMP combine both of the channels to achieve the whole 400W into one channel?

[Shazlic]

Thanks. Okay so when they say 4x80W and 4x60W you obviously don't just multiply! Ahhhh the learning curve! Does a "bridgeable" AMP combine both of the channels to achieve the whole 400W into one channel?

not that one. some do some don't. The info on the webpage says 4/3/2 channels so you can run 2 channels but cannot combine all four

[Team Penguin]

Always look for RMS power.

If it doesn't say that it mean its a MAX power.

MAX power is usually what it can get up to before it breaks usually while RMS is the true power.

[Shazlic]

That's why I emphasized on the MAX part in my thread explaining how the bridging works.

[[YLD80Y]]

Let me clear a few things up for the OP.

From what I info I can find on the amp it is 400w MAX, but 80/60w figure per channel is RMS. In basic terms that means if you were to plug a standard speaker into each channel you would get 60w RMS to each speaker.

In your case the configuration would give you 60w to each front speaker (that uses 2 of the 4 channels), and the bridged sub up to around 200w. (briding the remaining 2 channels.) Technically bridging will give 4 times the stated RMS output of a single channel, but usually only 2/3 to 3/4 of that is realistic.

Ideally you would want a 4 channel amp that does 100w RMS per channel, but the one you have chosen would suffice. (Unless you're the kind of person that isn't happy unless every panel on the car rattles)

Something you should note is that the sub you have chosen is a 4OHM single voice coil, and that really isn't suitable for a Class D monoblock amp. You may need to rethink that if your plan is to install a monoblock later.

[xsnoiz]

Something you should note is that the sub you have chosen is a 4OHM single voice coil, and that really isn't suitable for a Class D monoblock amp. You may need to rethink that if your plan is to install a monoblock later.

That Clarion Monoblock is actually rated at 300wrms @ 4 ohm, which would suffice nicely with the GT5 in a ported box. It only gains an extra 100WRMS at 2 ohm

[RS416]

Am thinking that this AMP from Fusion might be a better option for driving the JBL sub. It has 350W RMS across 1 Channel at 2 Ohms. The sub is rated at 275RMS which means it will not be underpowered by the AMP, reducing the risk of clipping etc.

http://www.ryda.com.au/Fusion-RE-AM9001 ... m90010.htm

[RS416]

Well, the Clarion CZ309A went in yesterday and looks pretty darn good. Sounds better than the stock Clarion that was in it, even though I have not touched the speakers as yet. Fascia etc fits really well and the extra map pocket is handy storage space too.

Gonna get a new USB thumb drive today and load up some MP3's to test the USB functionality over the weekend!

Next step will probably be a decent amp that can drive a small sub plus able to drive new front splits when I can afford them. Will run the the rears off the head unit only.

[Team Penguin]

So far so good. Sounds a plan to me.

[chicken-gun]

fantastic car and audio set up what are you using to run the steering wheel as the only thing i have found eg local car installers cost $200.00 plus